Hōʻike ka moʻolelo hou 'Truly Texas Mexican' i ka hoʻoilina meaʻai ʻōiwi o nā palena

Ma kāna palapala hōʻike e hiki mai ana ʻOiaʻiʻo ʻo Texas Mekiko, ʻIke ʻo Adán Medrano i ka hoʻoilina ʻai o ka palena ʻo Texas-Mexico, he hoʻoilina e ola nei i kēia manawa i loko o ka meaʻai homemade (hale kuke kuke) o Texas Mekiko kīhini ma ka hema o Texas.

ʻOiaʻiʻo ʻo Texas Mekiko hoʻowalewale i ko mākou naʻau me ka salsa tōmato i hana ʻia i ka molcajete, he moka a me ka pestle Mesoamerican mōʻaukala; hoʻomākaʻaka, ʻulaʻula pōhaku adobo ʻai no nā ʻiʻo ʻiʻo ancho chile; a lua barbecue, he maʻamau, ke poʻo bipi i hoʻomoʻa ʻia i ka lua lepo.

Nā ʻāina palena, wehewehe ʻo Medrano, ua noho ʻia e ka poʻe hahai holoholona ma mua o ka palena ʻo Texas-Mexico. ʻOiaʻiʻo, lōʻihi ma mua ma mua o kahi Texas. Or a Mexico. Even a Spain. And earthen-pit cooking? Proof traces its use again at the least 15,000 years within the San Antonio space.

However none of this wealthy historical past was a part of Medrano’s research in 2010 on the Culinary Institute of America Texas campus in San Antonio. He was troubled on the time by the absence of any point out of indigenous Texas Mexican delicacies.

“There was no presence of my meals,"Ua'ōleloʻo ia, o ka meaʻai homemade he grew up with in his mom’s San Antonio kitchen. “I knew our story had not been informed, however I didn’t understand it was so invisible.”

ʻO ka palapala palapala kekahi ʻāpana o kāna misionari e hoʻololi i kēlā. Ua ʻohi ʻia e kekahi mau kikowaena PBS Texas, kahi e hoʻolele ai ma hope o kēia 12 mahina a i ʻole ma mua o hope. Hiki ke kiʻi ʻia ke kiʻiʻoniʻoni ma o Vimeo ma ke koi, ma waho aʻe o nā hale kūʻai like ʻole. No ka mea hou loa ma ka nānā ʻana i ka ʻikepili, hele i ka punaewele ma truetexasmexican.com.

ʻAʻole ʻo Tex-Mex nā meaʻai Mekiko Texas, Hoʻomaopopo ʻo Medrano, Ua hana ʻia nā mea ʻono o Texas i hoʻokahi kenekulia i hala e a no Anglos. ʻAʻole nō hoʻi nā mea ʻono maʻamau o Mexico i hoʻolauna ʻia e nā kumu aʻo ma ka CIA. A ua hoʻololi ʻia e nā makahiki a me nā kenekulia e like me nā moʻomeheu hou, ʻo ka poʻe ʻEulopa, hoʻolauna i kā lākou mau mana ponoʻī - ua komo i loko o ka ipu kuke ʻo Texas Mekiko.

In ʻOiaʻiʻo ʻo Texas Mekiko, huakaʻi mākou me ka mea kākau a me ka chef Houston i nā wahi he nui, ʻo nā lumi kuke wahine mai ke awāwa ʻo Rio Grande ma ka ʻākau a hiki i San Antonio. No ke aha nā lumi kuke wahine? ʻO ka hopena o nā wahine i lawe i nā ʻano maʻamau.

"He hana koʻikoʻi nā kaikamahine i mālama ʻole ʻia i ka wā kahiko,” wahi a Medrano. Ua mahalo ʻia ke kiʻiʻoniʻoni i kāna e-puke ʻO Texas Mekiko maoli, He Hoʻoilina Kulina Maoli i loko o nā mea ʻai (2014), he ʻāpana o ka Texas Tech Press Grover E. ʻO Murray Research i loko o ka hōʻiliʻili ʻAmelika Hema.

Hele mākou i San Antonio Chef a me Caterer Rosalía Vargas e hana ana adobo ʻO ke ʻano like o ka hana ʻana o kona makuahine a me kona kupuna wahine i ka redolent, ʻaʻai i hoʻokomo ʻia i ka chile. Lawe ʻo Medrano iā mākou i kāna kaikuahine ʻo Christine Ortega ʻo San Antonio no kahi kūlana poʻo maikaʻi, he poʻo bipi i hoʻomaʻamaʻa ʻia, a laila ʻōwili ʻia a hoʻonoho ʻia i ka lā hoʻokahi e hoʻomākaukau i ka ʻaina ahiahi i loko o ka umu lua lepo. ʻO ka mea ʻono o nā lā kau, wahi a Joseph Doria, luna maʻamau o Bolner's Meat Co. ma San Antonio, ʻo ia "nā meaʻai ola no mākou."

“ʻO lākou [ko kakou mau kupuna] ua mālama ʻia ma nā meaʻai like 1,000 makahiki i hala ― nopalitos, aniani, nā huaʻai, pecans, ʻōmato, ʻuʻuku, pīni,” wahi a Medrano. ʻO nā meaʻai a pau o ʻAmelika, pu me ka kamaaina, kulina ma na wahi a pau.

A he kakaikahi paha o kakou i maopopo {kēlā a} Aia ka loko paʻakai maʻemaʻe ma ka ʻākau o Harlingen kokoke i Raymondville i mea nui i nā moʻomeheu mua. He wahi hoʻomaha ʻo La Sal Del Rey no ka poʻe ʻōiwi mai kahi mamao aku e like me ke kikowaena Mekiko, ma muli o ka mea kākau moʻolelo ʻo Homero Vera.

“Ua hele ka poʻe India ma ʻaneʻi no ka paʻakai,” wehewehe ʻo Vera i loko o ke kiʻiʻoniʻoni. “Ua kuhi hewa ka poʻe ʻōiwi i kahi mīkini paʻa,"Ua'ōleloʻo ia, "I ka hiki ʻana mai o ka poʻe Sepania." Ua koi aku ka poe hoouka kaua i ka pono minerala no ke alii o Sepania, a ua pa'i i ka uku no ka mineral waiwai.

Hoʻopuka ke kiʻiʻoniʻoni i kekahi mau nīnau hōʻoluʻolu: ʻO wai nā kamaʻāina, nona ka ʻāina, a ʻo wai ka poʻe malihini? Ma kahi pae, ke hoʻāʻo nei ʻo ia i ka Texas Historic Fee e kākau hou i kāna moʻolelo racist o nā Karankawa Indians ma kāna plaque ma Corpus Christi. ʻO ka moʻolelo naʻe he maʻalahi: ʻO ka poʻe Sepania i hoʻokomo i nā pipi i ia wahi no kēlā hana maʻamau barbecue a me ka waiu bipi no ka custard-like jericalla.

ʻO ka palapala hōʻike, e like me ka nui o ka valentine e like me ka luʻu hohonu i nā ala ʻai o nā palena a me ka mōʻaukala kahiko, ua lawe ʻia mai kahi pūnaewele ʻokoʻa ma waena o Medrano a me ka luna kiʻiʻoniʻoni Uruguayan ʻo Aníbal Capoano, ka mea i manaʻo ikaika he moʻolelo maʻamau ka moʻolelo.

"Ua hoʻomaka wau e kamaʻilio me ke alakaʻi ma ka pūnaewele,” wahi a Medrano, "a ʻōlelo ʻo ia, 'E hana i kahi kiʻiʻoniʻoni e pili ana i kāu e-puke, e pili ana i nā meaʻai ʻōiwi a me nā hale hana i loaʻa iā ia.’” A pēlā ʻo ia i hana ai, i ka hopena e hana pū me Capoano e hoʻopuka i ka ʻoihana i ka hua.

He mea kākau manuahi ʻo Dallas ʻo Kim Pierce.

Nā ʻiʻo ʻiʻo Ancho Chile

4 nā ʻaʻa ancho

1 aniani keʻokeʻo

3 ʻōpuʻu kālika

2 teaspoon oregano Mekiko hou loa

3 puna paʻakai (hoohana mahele)

1 kīʻaha wai

1 punetune ʻaila canola

1/2 kīʻaha waiu

3 auneke ʻāpana palaoa, hoʻopau ʻia nā ʻōpala, poino a hiki i 1-iniha mau mea (pili ana 1 1/2 kīʻaha)

1 puaʻa papahele paʻi

1 paona 96% pipi papahele wīwī

1 hua manu, ʻeha ʻia

2 kīʻaha ʻōmato ʻokiʻoki

2 kīʻaha moa moa

1/4 teaspoon kō

1/2 punetune vinega keʻokeʻo

E hoʻomoʻa mua i ka umu 400 F.

Wehe i nā ʻanoʻano mai nā chiles ma ka hoʻoemi ʻana i kahi ʻāpana lōʻihi i kēlā me kēia chile e wehe a lawe i ke kumu me nā hua pili.. Wehe i nā ʻanoʻano like ʻole i loko o ka pod.

E kau i nā chiles i loko o kahi ipu nui me ka wai e uhi ai. E lawe i kahi pala, e hoopau i ka mehana, a e hoʻokuʻu i nā chiles no ka hapahā hola e hoʻomaʻemaʻe hou. E hoʻokahe a ʻae e hoʻolili. E hoʻolei i ka wai.

E kau i nā chiles, onioni, kālika, oregano a me 1 teaspoon ka paʻakai i loko o kahi huila me 1 kīʻaha i ka wai a hui pū me ka nui a maʻemaʻe loa ka paʻi, me nā ʻāpana nunui ʻole. E hoʻonui iki i ka wai inā makemake ʻia. Inā noho nā ʻāpana nunui, e kaomi i ka paʻi ma o ka kānana maka.

E hoʻomaʻamaʻa i ka ʻaila canola i ka umu Dutch a hoʻohui i ka chile puree - me ka ʻōlelo aʻo, ma muli o ia mea hiki ke paʻipaʻi no ka hui ʻana o ka wai me ka ʻaila. Fry no 10 minuke. E hohonu ke kala a mānoanoa ka puree. Waiho i ka aoao.

I loko o kahi pola, ninini i ka waiu, hoʻohui i ka berena a waiho ʻia.

I loko o ke kīʻaha nunui, hui pū i ka puaʻa a me ka pipi. E hoʻohui i ka hua manu i ʻoki ʻia a me ʻelua mau puna paʻakai i koe. E kaomi i ka waiū hou mai ka berena a hoʻohui i ka berena i loko o ka ʻiʻo e hoʻohana ana i kou mau lima a i ʻole kahi spatula nui a puna paha.. Hoʻohui 8 nā punetune a i ʻole ½ kīʻaha o ka ancho chile puree i ka ʻiʻo a hui pū ʻia. E hoʻokaʻawale i ka puree.

ʻAno i ka ʻiʻo i loko 40 (1 ½-iniha) pōpō a kau ma luna o kahi pepa bakena nui. Kalua i loko o ka umu no 12 i umikumamalima minuke, a ʻeleʻele a ʻulaʻula ma ka ʻili. Wehe i ka umu a ʻae e hoʻomaha no 10 mau minuke ma mua o ka lawelawe ʻana.

I ke koena chile puree i loko o ka umu Dutch, hoʻohui i nā tōmato, papa helu moa, ke kō a me ka vīnega a lawe i kahi maʻi. E hoʻomākaukau i ka ʻaina ahiahi no ka hapalua hola a hoʻomaka ka mānoanoa o ka adobo. Kāhua a kūpono i ka paʻakai.

E lawelawe i ka ʻiʻo ma luna o kahi pā me ka adobo sauce. Hana 6 i ewalu lawelawe.

Hoolako: ʻOiaʻiʻo ʻo Texas Mekiko: He Hoʻoilina Kulina Maoli i loko o nā mea ʻai

ʻO ka pipi i kālua ʻia no Barbacoa Tacos

ʻO ia ka hoʻololi ʻana o Adán Medrano i ka Barbacoa De Pozo - ke poʻo bipi i ʻai ʻia i ka lua lepo maʻamau - no ka lumi kuke., hana ʻia me ka pipi pipi.

2 kilos pipi iwi ʻole

3 ʻōpuʻu kālika, ʻili ʻia a ʻoki ʻia

1/2 aniani keʻokeʻo

1/2 teaspoon ʻeleʻele peppercorns

1/2 teaspoon paakai

2 (2-loko) nā lau hou o Texas Mexican oregano

Sizzling corn tortillas, a wide range of salsas, recent coarsely chopped cilantro and Mexican lime wedges

E hoʻomoʻa mua i ka umu 200 F.

Place the meat in a Dutch oven and fill midway with water. Add the garlic, onioni, black peppercorns, salt and oregano, and convey to a boil. Flip off the warmth.

Cowl tightly and switch to oven and prepare dinner for six to eight hours. Flip the meat over as soon as throughout cooking.

When beef is completed, place it on a reducing board or in a big bowl and, utilizing forks or picket spoons, pull the meat aside. Modify the salt. Hold the meat heat for making tacos.

To make tacos, serve with sizzling corn tortillas, a wide range of salsas, recent coarsely chopped cilantro and Mexican lime wedges. Hana 8 servings.

Hoolako: ʻOiaʻiʻo ʻo Texas Mekiko: He Hoʻoilina Kulina Maoli i loko o nā mea ʻai

Squash and Corn Stew

2 tatuma (Mexican heirloom) or zucchini squash

1 punetune ʻaila canola

1/2 aniani keʻokeʻo, reduce into skinny vertical slices

1 ear corn, kernels reduce off near the cob

2 Roma tomatoes, diced into small cubes

1/4 kīʻaha wai

1/2 teaspoon paakai, or to style

Lower off and discard each suggestions of the squash. Slice the squash lengthwise into quarters, then slice the quarters into ½-inch wedges. Waiho i ka aoao.

Warmth the oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium warmth. Add the onion and prepare dinner 3 to five minutes, till it begins to turn into translucent.

Add the corn and tomatoes and prepare dinner one other 2 minuke, stirring.

Add the squash, water and salt to the skillet. Cowl and prepare dinner for five to 7 minuke, or till the squash has launched its juices (delicate however not mushy). Style and alter salt.

Hana 4 servings.

Hoolako: Don’t Count the Tortillas: The Art of Texas Mexican Cooking by Adán Medrano (2019)

Paloma Grapefruit Cocktail

1 recent Mexican lime

Salt, to coat rim of glass

2 ounces tequila

4 ounces (a i ʻole 1/2 kūala) recent grapefruit juice

1/2 teaspoon kō

2 ounces (a i ʻole 1/4 kūala) glowing water

Rim a tall glass with lime juice and coat with salt. Waiho i ka aoao.

In a shaker, add tequila, wai ʻalaʻala, ke kō a me ka wai lime. E hoʻoulu a hoʻoluliluli a pau ke kō.

E hoʻopiha i ke aniani paʻakai me ka hau, a ninini i ka wai tequila-grapefruit a me ka wai ʻālohilohi ma luna o ka hau a lawelawe.

Hana 1 lawelawe ana.

Hoolako: Don’t Count the Tortillas: The Art of Texas Mexican Cooking by Adán Medrano (2019)